New amphiphilic structures derived from vegetable oils • ITERG

New amphiphilic structures derived from vegetable oils: evaluation of their properties and potential applications

The 6th edition of the Cosm’Innov Conference will take place on May 20 and 21, 2026, in Orléans.

Cécile Joseph, a Formulation Development Engineer at ITERG, will give an oral presentation on “New amphiphilic structures derived from vegetable oil: evaluation of properties and potential applications.”

SUMMARY OF THE INTERVENTION

Vegetable oils serve as raw materials for the production of nonionic amphiphilic structures. To achieve a variety of properties, it is well known that one can adjust the fatty acid composition (carbon chain length, degree of saturation or unsaturation) or the nature of the hydrophilic group.

However, other factors—such as molecular structure, synthesis strategy, or the presence of minor components—are just as important to investigate as the nature and proportions of the hydrophilic and hydrophobic building blocks.

Regardless of synthesis constraints, the process parameters for functional evaluation and application positioning require a structured and integrated approach. Stability and instability phenomena are complex and depend on the state of aggregation, adsorption and/or repulsion mechanisms between the emulsifier and the droplet, as well as formulation parameters such as water/oil/molecule ratios and the emulsification process.

The goal of recent developments is to evaluate the performance of new amphiphilic molecules in relation to both emulsion chemistry and formulation parameters, using two-factor factorial designs. This approach makes it possible to optimize structures and synthesis conditions, compare the molecules with commercial references, and identify the optimal conditions for use.

The most promising molecules, selected using this method, were incorporated into simple yet representative prototype products (pigmented lotion, anhydrous balm, cream) to evaluate their stabilizing, dispersing, and emollient properties through physicochemical and sensory analyses.

They performed on par with commercial benchmarks under similar conditions of use, while offering an interesting range of sensory nuances.

Contact: c.joseph@iterg.com